Most likely the calibration needs to be adjusted on the thermostat. Many times the manufacturer can assist in re-calibrating over the phone, depending on the type of unit. Note: A 10-20 degree variance is normal per some manufacturers.
(If electric) Try resetting the designated circuit breaker in your electrical panel. If that doesn't help, check the dial; it may be on "time bake". The oven will not turn on without a time being programmed into the unit. Either set a time or reset the oven to bake or broil.
If you haven't used the self-clean before and are unsure how your unit operates, operating instructions can be obtained from the manufacturer. Check the dials for the self-clean setting. Be sure the door latch is closed.
The dishwasher does not necessarily have a mechanical malfunction if it does not drain properly. Read on for our simple ways to cure this problem!
1.) Inside the dishwasher at the bottom of the unit there is what looks like an upside down cup. This is the float or pressure switch that should move up and down freely. Gently attempt to move it, if any large food particles, glass, plastic, etc. have become lodged under this switch, remove them so the unit can function properly.
2.) If the float switch is ok, then there may be a clog in the air gap. This is the hose that runs under the sink from the dishwasher to the silver cap on top of the sink. There may be an obstruction in the line or in the air gap itself. Remove the silver or plastic cap that exposes the air gap. If you see an obstruction (ie: food particles, etc.), remove them. If no obstruction is visible, the top of the air gap should pop or unscrew. Remove it to find out if you can see any other obstruction. If still no obstruction is visible, invert a plastic cup over the air gap opening (making sure the cup is suctioned tightly to the sink) then advance the dishwasher timer to the drain cycle to start pumping water through the line. If the obstruction is in the line, it should be pressurized out of the air gap opening. Be sure to keep your hand on the cup to prevent the water pressure from pushing it out of place. If the water runs through the air gap, shut off the dishwasher and reassemble the air gap.
3.) If the disposal was recently replaced, the installer may have failed to remove the plug on the side of the disposal where the drain hose connects, thus the unit will not drain. This plug normally requires a special tool and can be rather difficult to remove. To prevent damaging the unit, contact the installer directly to remove the plug.
Liquid soap suds cause leakage around the door. Switching to powder soap will solve this problem. If you have been using liquid soap, place a cup of vinegar in the dishwasher and run it through a cycle. This will remove the remaining liquid soap from the system. If this does not solve the problem, refer to the above solution. The leakage could be a result of the unit not draining properly.
This means there is a clog in the line between the air gap and the disposal. The hose under the sink can be removed very easily and the clog can be removed. Be sure to re-attach the hose entirely to prevent any leakage problems.
Soap properly dissolves if the water temperature is above 140 degrees. Try increasing the temperature on the water heater or run the faucet at the kitchen sink until it comes out hot prior to starting the dishwasher.
First try resetting your circuit breaker. If that isn't effective, and a bathroom or kitchen outlet is affected, it could be a tripped GFI. The GFI is a "mini" breaker located inside an outlet within 10 feet of water (ie: a sink). This GFI "button" tends to be red with test/reset noted on it, located directly on the outlet cover. This prevents electrocution by shutting off power immediately if electrical current comes in contact with water.
A GFI is most likely located:
1.) In the bathroom.
2.) In the kitchen.
3.) In the garage.
4.) At the circuit breaker panel box.
Regardless of where it is located, it is likely that all the kitchen and bathroom circuits are hooked through this outlet. Builders generally install one GFI and then wire other outlets through it. Look in these areas for the GFI and be sure the reset button is depressed.
Replacing an outlet or switch is actually a very minor repair. With the power turned off to the area, it is not at all dangerous. The parts can be purchased for around $5 and the local hardware store can walk you through the steps to replace.
Garage door openers have a tension knob on the back of the opener which needs to be adjusted to the weight of the door. In the winter, wooden doors may absorb moisture thus making them heavier. This will result in the door operating with a "jerking" motion.
The tension knob is located on the back, side or front exterior of the opener. There are usually indicators that read "higher/lower" or "increase/decrease". Adjust this knob slightly to one direction, test the door, if that doesn't help, turn the knob the other direction, until you are satisfied with the door's function.
Remove any obstructions in the hinge/spring area. Most units have an automatic reversing feature in the event the door hits an obstruction.
Many units have an "electric eye" or sensor that may become obstructed. If so, remove the obstruction. At times these sensors may become misaligned. If the light on the sensor is blinking, it means the two sensors are not aligned and need to be adjusted to become aligned. Once alignment is made, the lights will discontinue to "blink" and the "obstruction" will be eliminated.
1.) Most disposals have a "Reset" button on the bottom or side of the unit, this acts as a "built in" circuit breaker. Depress this button to reset the unit.
2.) If step 1 does not help, try resetting the designated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
Use an "Allen" wrench to un-jam the unit. This is a five sided tool ("L" shaped) that will fit into the bottom of the disposal ($2-$3 at a hardware store). With the unit turned off or unplugged, insert this into the bottom of the disposal. Move it clockwise and counter clockwise to loosen the jammed unit. Sometimes you can reach into the disposal and remove the item if it is large enough. Always Unplug The Garbage Disposal Before Reaching Into The Unit. Once you believe the unit to be clear of the jam, plug the unit back in and turn the disposal on to see if it rotates!
Pour 1 cup each of baking soda, salt & vinegar. Pour baking soda & salt into drain, immediately followed by vinegar. Let sit for approximately 15-20 minutes. As you wait, boil a pot of water. After the 15-20 minutes, pour the boiling water down the drain to flush the pipes out. Note: Do not use this remedy if you have already used a store-bought remedy in the same drain.
Fill an ice cube tray ½ full of vinegar and ½ full of water. Once the cubes are frozen, place them down the disposal 2-3 cubes a week for about a month and this will not only sharpen the blades, but keep your drain clean at the same time! (Lemon peels also work well for odors).
The furnace filter is an important component for the proper operation of a furnace. If the filter gets clogged, it will not allow the furnace to circulate properly, which can result in these symptoms. The blower door switch will automatically turn the unit off when the door to the filter is opened. You can simply replace the filter to save time and money!
Make sure nothing is closer then 18 inches from all output vents and intake grilles. To ensure adequate airflow NOTHING should be blocking them.
This usually indicates NO electricity is getting to the unit. Most furnaces installed in the last 15 years have a switch located on the inside of the front panel known as the blower door switch. The panel needs to be properly aligned and completely closed to activate this switch. The purpose of the switch is to prevent the furnace from coming on when you change the filter. If that doesn't solve the problem, make sure the thermostat is set to the temperature you desire and is set on automatic. Finally, check the circuit breaker or contact the gas company to check out your unit or relight your pilot light, the gas company will do this for free!
Check that the thermostat is not set on "fan". Some furnaces are equipped with a "summer switch". This is located on the side of the furnace and is used primarily in the summer months to circulate air throughout the home. Turn the switch setting to "OFF" to stop the fan function.
The local utility company may provide this service for free.
Please contact them for assistance and ask if they will relight your pilot light.
If they don't, please contact our Customer Service department and ORHP will dispatch a
contractor to service your heating system.
If this is only happening while the hot water is running, refer to the water heater section on how to "flush" the unit. If it is coming from both hot and cold lines, it is most likely corrosion or rust in the pipes and that would require a contractor to correct. Under the Terms of our Plan, we do not provide coverage for chemical build-up or rusted pipes. Pipes must be actually leaking due to normal wear and tear to be covered under the Plan.
To eliminate the hammer is easy! Water hammer is caused by air being trapped in your incoming water line. First, shut the water off to your home at the main shut off valve. Open all the faucets and fixtures, both hot and cold until all the water is drained from the pipes. Then, with all the faucets still "open", turn the water valve back on to the home which will allow all the air to be pushed out of the pipes by incoming water. Then one by one, shut off each faucet and the hammer will be gone! If this does not resolve the problem, it could be related to high water pressure. If you have a pressure regulator, it is covered by Old Republic, so call us for service.
The pump may have stopped circulating because the water level in the pool/spa is too low. If the water level has dropped below the center of the skimmer, air may get into the system causing it to stop working well. "Re-prime" the pump by raising the water level in your pool/spa, then remove the pump lid and place a few gallons of water in the pump basket. After re-attaching the pump lid, open the valve under the pressure gauge on top of the filter. Turn your equipment on and when water sprays from the open valve, close the valve. The equipment should re-prime itself. You can tell the pump is working when the pressure gauge moves.
Clean the filter. If the filter is dirty it will cause an increase in pressure and will reduce the ability of the filter to work properly. Cartridge filters need cleaning approximately every 2 months. D.E. filters need cleaning 2-3 times a year.
Re-set the circuit breaker at the sub or main electrical panel. Pool/Spa equipment should be on its' own circuit. There may also be a GFI outlet at the equipment. (See electrical section for clarification about the GFI). Be sure it is in the re-set position. Spas may have a designated re-set button also.
Clean the filter. If filters are dirty it restricts water flow into the heater. Most heaters have a pressure switch that will not allow the heater to turn on unless the water flow (pressure) is sufficient.
If you have multiple stoppages in the home, i.e. toilet, sinks, laundry line, or any combination of these, this would be considered a "main line" stoppage and requires a plumber. Call our service department for assistance!
If you have a "slow drain" in a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or tub, this can be caused by food, hair and/or sludge build up and can be easily remedied. Pour 1 cup each of baking soda, salt & vinegar. Pour baking soda & salt into drain, immediately followed by vinegar. Let sit for approximately 15-20 minutes. As you wait, boil a pot of water. After the 15-20 minutes, pour the boiling water down the drain to flush the pipes out. Note: Do not use this remedy if you have already used a store-bought remedy in the same drain. This may have to be done 1-3 times to clear the line effectively.
We also recommend liquid drain cleaners (not the crystals). The liquid drain cleaners are not recommended on the kitchen sink if there is a garbage disposal as they have been known to damage the disposals. Make sure to follow the directions for maximum effectiveness.
A leaking flapper most likely causes both symptoms. This is the round "seal" in the bottom of the tank connected to the chain for the handle. When you depress the handle, the flapper pops up to allow the water in the tank to rush into the bowl and cause the toilet to flush.
The flapper is easily removed and replaced. The flapper costs around $2-$5 at any hardware store and will likely fix the problem. Be sure to remove the old one and match it up to the new one to assure a proper fit.
Once the flapper is replaced, adjust the toilet ball (ballcock) gently downward to lower the water level in the tank. Remove any toilet bowl cleaners from obstructing the flapper in the tank.
Chances are this is related to sediment build up. A "flush" of the water heater may be all that is required.
Follow these steps to flush your water heater:
CAUTION: The water is hot and there is danger of being scalded. Use caution and keep children and pets away from the area when flushing water heater.
1.) Attach a garden hose to the drain valve (looks like a hose bibb) at the bottom of the heater. Run the garden hose either outside or to the nearest drain. 2.) Open the drain valve, which will allow the water to drain through the hose. 3.) When the water is running clear - after about 20 minutes - close the drain valve and remove the hose. 4.) Turn on a hot water faucet in your home and let it run until all air bubbles are out of the line, then turn it off.
If the water heater runs out of hot water too quickly, increase the temperature on the water heater thermostat. If the temperature is set on the highest setting, flush the water heater according to the directions above.